Art Day in Madrid

Our visit to the Palacio Real Madrid was originally scheduled yesterday but a few days before our flight, I received an email from the Patrimonio Nacional, the government agency handling visits, that the palace would be closed on the 3rd of April and that they had refunded our payments. I panicked a bit because I knew that the queues were long and bookings were appropriated specific time slots. So, back to the website and fortunately, was able to get a 10:15am slot for the next day.

It took about 20 minutes to walk to the palace from our hotel near the Puerto del Sol in the crisp cold air. It was still early when we arrived so we just waited at the park to the side of the palace. A few minutes before 10, we walked to the front of the palace and stood in line at the queue for those with tickets already. It took about 30 minutes before we were able to get in due to the slow security check. (Tip: put all your stuff including your mobile phones inside your bag)

Past security, we walked across the spacious ground to the entrance.

It was my first time to enter a European palace and it was so awe-inspiring with its grand columns, arched ceilings, colorfully-tiled floors.

Unfortunately, only the first few rooms were allowed to be photographed.

I especially liked the painted ceilings.

One of my favorite rooms was the one that was inspired by the raging Chinese-theme in the 19thc (sorry, pics not allowed). The sculpted Chinese figures (made of porcelain?) were intricate and seemed to leap out of the ceiling.

There were multitudes of people visiting but it wasn’t in the magnitude of the crowds during my visit to the Topkapi Palace in Istanbul last year. THAT place was really crowded. You couldn’t even spend time to admire any of the interior details. We spent about two hours wandering the different rooms.

From the royal palace, we took a cab to the Museo Nacional Del Prado which was currently getting a face lift for its 200 year anniversary. This museum was one of the reasons why we decided to go to Madrid. In its halls are two of my favorite paintings: Diego Velasquez’s “Las Meninas” and Herionymus Bosch’s “The Garden of Earthly Delights.” Both were artworks that I always discussed in class back when I was still teaching Art Appreciation. There were other masterpieces at the Prado I was familiar with but it was those two that I was so very much looking forward to seeing. I had downloaded an app on my phone that showed in which hall those paintings were so it was easy to seek them aided with the museum map and the helpful aides.

It was sheer joy finally being face to face with the two masterpieces. Being able to see every bit of detail of Bosch’s strange work was enormously thrilling. Of course, I fell in love with the “Las Meninas” all over again.

Next in my search was Goya’s riveting “3rd of May.” It was at the lower level along with his other “black paintings” such as “Saturn.” I took a seat at the wooden bench across the painting and just took in the scene of tragic massacre of peasants that Goya so vividly and metaphorically presented. I cannot forget the expression of the central figure, the man in white.

I almost missed the “La Maja Desnuda” and its dressed counterpart. Fortunately, while walking to the exit, Rhoda mentioned she had seen it. We stopped, turned back, and asked her to bring me to her. I also almost missed El Greco’s “The Resurrection of Christ.” Fortunately, I happened to look to the left at one of the rooms while walking along the main hall.

After the Prado, we took a cab to the Museo Nacional Reina Sofia for Picasso’s “Guernica.” I could just have stared at the sprawling canvas for hours. I knew that this masterpiece was huge but seeing it before me was just overwhelming. If not for the limited time we had, I could have easily spent an entire day at those 2 museums, especially the Prado which also housed works by Tintoretto, Titian Rembrandt, and Caravaggio.

The final stop for the day was Casa Cervantes and the Convento Delascalzas Trinitaries to pay hommage to Miguel de Cervantes.

TIPS

1. Get your tickets online to save yourself from lining-up to buy them.

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